Vivid Green Ethiopian Emeralds Bring Fresh Sparkle to May's Birthstone Story

A chance discovery in Ethiopia less than a decade ago is reshaping how jewelry lovers view May’s birthstone, the emerald. In the fall of 2016, artisanal miners searching for gold and tantalum near the town of Shakiso in southern Ethiopia unexpectedly uncovered vivid green crystals — a find that would quickly introduce a remarkable new source of high-quality emeralds to the global market.

Few gems capture the imagination quite like the emerald. Revered for its lush green hues and rich history, emerald belongs to the beryl family — a mineral that, in its pure form, is colorless. Its iconic green color emerges when trace elements such as chromium and vanadium replace aluminum within the crystal structure, creating the vibrant tones that have symbolized renewal, love and prosperity for centuries. It’s also the official gemstone for 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries, further cementing its romantic appeal.

While Colombia, Zambia and Brazil dominate global emerald production, Ethiopia has quickly established itself as an exciting newcomer. What started as an accidental find in 2016 sparked a modern-day gem rush, with small-scale miners flocking to the region and establishing a new source of high-quality emeralds almost overnight.

Unlike large commercial mining operations seen elsewhere, Ethiopia’s emerald industry is largely driven by artisanal methods. Miners work by hand, extracting gemstones from rugged terrain with minimal machinery. This traditional approach not only shapes the character of the stones but also contributes to the uniqueness of each gem entering the market.

What truly sets Ethiopian emeralds apart is their exceptional natural beauty. Many display intense, saturated green hues — often with a desirable bluish tint — that rival some of the finest Colombian stones. Even more remarkable, these gems frequently boast impressive clarity, meaning they often require no oiling or treatment to enhance their appearance.

Despite their quality, Ethiopian emeralds account for only about 1.5% of global production, making them a niche, but increasingly sought-after, category. Collectors and designers have taken notice, particularly as these stones began appearing at major international gem shows in 2017. Today, they are considered a “new star” in the gemstone world — rare, beautiful and full of promise.

A striking example of this emerging source is a 9.45-carat Ethiopian emerald gifted to the Smithsonian Institution by the Tiffany & Co. Foundation in 2017. The gem (shown above) stands as a testament to the remarkable quality that can come from this relatively young deposit.

As consumers continue to seek out unique, responsibly sourced gemstones, Ethiopian emeralds offer a compelling story — one of discovery, craftsmanship and natural beauty.

Credit: Photo by Greg Polley / Smithsonian.